Mancos, Colorado
Mesa Verde
Part One
When I lived here thirty years ago, Mesa Verde was one of my all time favorite places. It has many examples of the "condo style" architecture of the Anasazi from around the twelfth century. Actually, Anasazi is a Navajo word meaning ancient ones. And the civilization formerly known as Anasazi are currently known as Ancestral Puebloans. When I learned about these people many, many, many years ago, the thinking was that they had abandoned these premises and either disappeared or died off. The current thinking is that these people are the ancestors of the Pueblo Indians . . . the Hopi, the Zuni, and others. One thing that makes me curious is that - - at least in Chaco Canyon - - there were some very significant astronomical achievements . . . why didn't the Pueblo Indians retain that knowledge? Anyway, back to my day!
I've been wanting to go back again since I arrived in Durango several months ago. But, most of the exhibits have been closed due to weather. But, I emailed them, and many more were open, so off I went! When I got there, I bought my (yearly, I plan to visit often!) pass a the gate. When the woman asked me for picture ID, I gave her my Maine drivers license. She was from Maine! How wonderfully synchronistic is that!?! It was a sign that everything was as it should be.
After the gate, you still have to drive about fifteen miles of narrow, curvy, somewhat scary mountain roads. Since I didn't really remember the roads . . . I figured they weren't that bad! I headed to the Chapin Museum first to sign up for the ten o'clock tour of Spruce Tree House. Just before I made the turn into the museum, I slowed down for several deer in the middle of the road. I get to the museum just a few minutes before the tour.
Our guide is Ranger Paul, a retired physician who is now a ranger! We walk down a steep cement path. We follow switchbacks all the way down. But, about midway, we stop for Paul to talk about trees, and behind him I see Spruce Tree House. It is beautiful, and takes my breath away . . . or maybe it was the steep trail! Spruce Tree House is the most well preserved of all the ruins.
When we get to it, I am still awed. It is so magnificent, and so old. I can't get over how incredible it is. Ranger Paul points out different things about the architecture, and then we are on our own to ask questions or take pictures or just wander around outside the chains. He had pointed out the different types of doorways . . . regular rectangular and "keyhole" shaped. I asked why. He said that all they can figure out is that it is easier to enter the key shaped doorways, if you are carrying something. Also, if you put something over the door to keep the wind out, there is still the space on the bottom that would allow for fresh air and light. So, I asked . . . then why have the rectangular doors at all? He thought maybe the keyhole shaped doors were public areas, and the rectangular doors were private areas. But, it's all conjecture . . . these were built about a thousand years ago, so no one really knows.
There was also a public kiva in this area . . . a kiva that you could climb down a ladder into. Ranger Paul said that when the park wanted to have a public kiva, the Pueblo Indians said they didn't want white people walking on their sacred ground. So, the park put a foot of fill dirt in on top of the sacred ground, and that satisfied the Indians!
After taking some pictures, I climbed down the ladder. There were two people in there when I arrived, but they left soon after. I took a couple shots, and then sat down to meditate. After awhile, I heard Paul call down, "Is anybody in there?" I said yes. He said I still had a few more minutes. It was pretty cold in the kiva, and I had plenty on. But, my hands got really cold. I enjoyed the feeling of meditating in there, but I was glad when Ranger Paul said it was time to come out! I could defrost my hands!
About three quarters of the way up the steep slope was the petroglyph trail. I headed out by myself. I walked and walked and walked and walked. The trail had some snow and some mud, but was mostly okay. When I finally got to the turn in the trail, I knew I was close. But, then I walked and walked some more! The trail started going on icy rocks close to the edge, but I was still following muddy footprints, so I knew I was going the right way. But, as I was on some particularly icy, scary rocks, I realized the muddy footprints were gone. I backtracked, and checked the cliff walls behind me, and couldn't find any petroglyphs. After this long of a walk, I was not going to go home "empty handed!" I had come too far! So, I ventured out on the scary, icy rocks again. Luckily, at some point, I looked down, and saw a number on a post. Turning around, I went back several feet and then headed down toward the numbered post. When I got there, I picked up the trail again.
I had to do some climbing over rocks, but finally reached the petroglyph panel. It wasn't as good as the wonderful ones that I saw in Largo Canyon, but it was still pretty awesome, and worth the trip! The trek back up to the main trail from the petroglyphs just about did me in. I rested at the top, but not nearly long enough. And the rest of the trail back to the museum felt like it took forever. I didn't remember all those little hills on the way in! Talk about molehills turning to mountains!
I was pretty exhausted by the time I got back. But, more than tired, I was starved. I sat in my car and brought the lunch I had packed. It was delicious! Then, I went back into the museum to get instructions for the rest of my day.
Pictures: Spruce Tree House; three story "condo" with keyhole doors and rectangular doors; me in the kiva; petroglyph panel.
